History
Factory
IN MEMORIAM

DEHEN KNITTING COMPANY

Made in Portland, Oregon USA since 1920

Founded by William Peter Dehen in 1920, Dehen Knitting Company produces classic and traditional U.S. heavyweight apparel.  Keeping true to our humble yet pioneering beginnings in Portland, Oregon, we are a family business known for long-lasting quality, workmanship and rugged styling.

In the 1920's we began knitting varsity and collegiate sweaters for student athletes.  In the 30's we started supplying local motorcycle clubs with riding sweaters. In the 50's we added the Varsity Jacket to our repertoire, making each jacket by hand to the specification of each individual lucky enough to letter in his or her sport. 

Today, well into our eleventh decade, Dehen continues a tradition of heavy duty, quality manufacturing while actually producing our goods in Portland. Value is built into every garment that Dehen makes.
  
Over the last 100 years there have been many changes, not the least of which was the pressure to move our manufacturing outside the United States.  Even when times got tough, not once did we flinch in our approach and commitment. We are proud of our company, our employees and our continued resilience over so many years in business.   We refuse to compromise on the methods and ideals honed over the past 100 years, while accepting the challenge to keep moving forward. Launched in 2011 our Dehen 1920 line combines the best of our past with an eye on the future.

We hope to share with you the “Heavy Duty, Old School Truth” that is Dehen 1920.

1900 - 1920

William Peter Dehen emigrated from his native Germany to the United States in 1903. He brought with him an incredibly strong work ethic, a healthy respect for tradition, and a fearless, pioneering spirit. He was equal parts proud of his heritage and thankful to his adopted country that presented him with a whole new world of opportunities.

In America, William and his brother Matthias had a reputation for being driven young entrepreneurs unafraid to take some risks, William worked at Golden State Knitting in San Francisco, and on the side worked with his brother, running liquor from Canada to the United States. While the side job was profitable, it soon landed the Dehen brothers on the worng side of the law, and each received a short jail sentence. William got out first and graciously offfered to take care of his brother's girlfriend, Celia, who unsurprisingly fell for William's famous charm. Soon they were planning a wedding. 

 William moved his new bride north, to focus on opportunities of a more legal nature. After spending some time both in Port Angeles and Seattle, they eventually settled in Portland, Oregon. William found work as the night knitting manager at Jantzen Knitting Mills, and the family settled down in Portland's Goose Hollow neighborhood. 

1920 - 1940

William never lost his entrepreneurial spirit or his appetite for risk, and after cobbling together his savings and a bit of borrowed money; he left Jantzen and formed Dehen Knitting Company in 1920.

 Business boomed. The company outgrew its shop, and moved into a new facility in what was then the eastern edge of Portland at Southeast 86th and Stark Street (in present day Montavilla). The company provided a steady income, and William and Celia were able to provide a great life for their three young children. Then the depression hit.

The market crash meant that most of Dehen’s customers, who paid with credit, were unable to pay their bills. The bank foreclosed on the factory, but William was undeterred, paying a visit to his padlocked mill in the dead of night. When the bank officers visited the property the next day, they found that the knitting equipment had disappeared. 

If they visited the Dehen’s home, they might have noticed a hole in the kitchen floor, from which protruded the top of a particularly tall knitting machine. Operations never ceased; the knitting just happened in the basement of their home, and William peddled his sweaters door to door, sometimes taking food as payment.

By 1936, business was back on track with orders for school sweaters and work apparel piling up. A retail store was opened on 10th and Yamhill in downtown Portland, and the Dehen kids, led by their youngest sibling Bill, began to learn the trade from their father. 

1940 - 1960

Things got more serious with the approach of World War II. Bill joined the Navy, the company battled the scarcity of wool and other materials, and William helped his Jewish friends get safely out of Germany.

 Once the war was over, business surged, and new markets opened up for Dehen. They added car coats, motorcycle togs and other new styles to their repertoire, and expanded their school business into varsity jackets and cheerleading uniforms. Bill returned from the war, rejoined the family company, and hired other veterans to sell on the road to small town men’s stores across the west.

Slowly but surely William handed the reins of Dehen over to Bill and his brother Henry, and the brothers carried on their father’s legacy of producing high quality woolens. Like their father, Bill and Henry did not subscribe to any notions that race, religion, or class affected a person’s worth. In the 1940's they hired Otto Rutherford, without giving much thought to the color of his skin. While the hiring of a black man was newsworthy at the time, the fact that he was African American made no difference to them. 

Otto’s determined spirit made him fit in well with the Dehens; he started as a machine mechanic and developed into a master knitter. He was also instrumental in organizing a union at the company, ran the Portland chapter of the NAACP, and played a part in getting a key anti-discrimination bill passed by the Oregon legislature.  

1960 - 1980

Dehen never ceased to be a family business. At one time or another all ten of Bill’s children worked there, as well as several of their Dehen cousins. Just like their father, all of the Dehen kids started in the factory on weekends, after school, and during their summer breaks. They learned the craft from their older cousins and siblings, and shared not only an appreciation for the art of knitting, but also a deep respect for the family business that William had built.

The company opened a new downtown store near the waterfront on 2nd and Alder, and built a state-of-the art knitting mill and apparel factory on Flanders and 10th street in Northwest Portland (in the present day Pearl District). Dehen grew to over a hundred employees, expanded into new product areas, and invested in new machinery that would allow them to knit cotton and other materials. 

 While the business grew and their capabilities expanded, Dehen held close to its traditional ways. Quality never wavered, corners were never cut, and the company continued to focus on the small “mom and pop” retailers that had been with them all along.

1980 - 2010

The tide turned again during the late 20th century, with change in the country and the world hitting Dehen’s business head on.

Just as Dehen had expanded its manufacturing capabilities, the consumer landscape in the US shifted to one based primarily on low cost Asian imports. Fueled by the expansion of Big Box stores and their discount pricing, consumer sentiment shifted away from long-lasting, high-quality apparel, and toward the inexpensive goods that were flowing in from overseas.  

Dehen was not in the business of manufacturing cheap, disposable goods, and could not compete on price with the overseas factories who were. It was a consumer trend that more or less killed American manufacturing and Main Street retailers – the "mom and pop" stores that were the backbone of Dehen’s business. 

At the end of the century, Dehen remained, but to survive it had to embrace some change. By the late 90’s, Dehen had evolved, increasingly relying on those consumers looking for custom manufacturing and exceptional service. Ever the innovators, the Dehen family stayed true to their craft while thinking of new ways to reach the people out there who still valued quality products, made to last. 

2010 - Today

Founded by William Peter Dehen in 1920, Dehen Knitting Company produces classic and traditional U.S. heavyweight apparel. Keeping true to our humble yet pioneering beginnings in Portland, Oregon, we are a family business known for long-lasting quality, workmanship and rugged styling.

Today, well into our fourth generation, Dehen continues a tradition of heavy duty, quality manufacturing while actually producing our goods in Portland. Value is built into every garment that Dehen makes. 

We are proud of our company, our employees and our continued resilience over so many years in business. We refuse to compromise on the methods and ideals honed over the past 100 years, while accepting the challenge to move forward. Launched in 2011 our Dehen 1920 line combines the best of our past with an eye on the future. 

We hope to share with you the “Heavy Duty, Old School Truth” that is Dehen 1920.  

FACTORY

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In Memoriam

William Lawrence Dehen
May 17, 1922 - October 1, 2013 

"Bill," as friends and family knew him, was the type of man you hope to be. The son of German immigrants, Bill was born on the living room floor of their home in east Portland. He grew up during the years of the Great Depression; for Bill Dehen, life was full of opportunity, not guarantees.

After Pearl Harbor, Bill joined the US Navy and served as a torpedo man 2nd class in the Pacific theater. The war informed Bill's perspective on life in a very profound way. After the Peace he started work at the family business, Dehen Knitting Company. In July of 1948 he married the love of his life, Lou Ann; they celebrating 65 years of marriage in the summer of 2013.

Dehen was a family business, and that concept of family influenced the way Bill treated the more than 100 employees that worked for him. Customers and employees alike believed in the product, yes, but they also believed in the man. The honesty, humility, and dedication that were the hallmarks of Bill's life were apparent in every aspect of Dehen's business. Bill worked for and ran the company across five decades, and even in retirement, remained a trusted source of shrewd advice and honest perspective. Bill alway said, "If it's worth doing, it's worth doing well." 

 He wouldn't call himself a businessman. Bill was a family man who used business as a way to provide, support, and teach. Bill is remembered as a man of integrity and honor, and as a man who served. He served his country, his employees, his customers, his children and grandchildren, and above all, his beloved wife Lou Ann. He wasn't out to make money; he was out to make a life for himself and his family. It just so happened that, along the way, he made some damn fine sweaters.

 

 
 
Lou Ann Dehen
November 6, 1926 - March 3, 2018
 

Ask me about the company, and I’ll tell you about the family—ask me about the family, and I’ll tell you about Lou Ann.  Bill Dehen may have steered the ship, but she was his North Star.

Lou Ann met Bill on a blind date the spring of 1948, and married him later that year.  They welcomed their first child in 1949, and by 1963, had added nine more.  We’ll let you do the math—suffice it to say: life comes at you fast.

An avid reader, exuberant dancer, and spirited friend, Lou Ann’s passion for life was infectious.  She was always up for a good party, ready to laugh with old friends or make new ones.  Lou Ann’s generous and accepting love was apparent to all who knew her, and she possessed a gentle yet abiding strength that centered the bustling Dehen household.  She was also fond of Manhattans. 

  
Lou Ann was a pillar of her community, parish and the company. She was a life-long Portlander, attending Kennedy Grade School, Jefferson High School and the University of Oregon, enjoyed picnics at Columbia Park and Mt. Tabor, and volunteering at St. Vincent DePaul.

It is said that the most important thing a father can do for his children is to love their mother, and by this measure, Bill was more than up to the task. The happy couple treasured 65 years in this life together, raising a family, supporting their community and, in their later years, traveling the world. Lou Ann was a woman of deep faith, and believed that their travels together were never over, just on pause. That sort of thing is above our pay grade, but what we do know for certain is that few couples get as much out of life as Bill and Lou Ann got out of theirs.